Comparative Politics - Football Style: Messied Up, and Adventures in Cairo

Argentinean soccer superstar Lionel Messi is apparently no stranger in the Middle East. Sporting his jersey in both Cairo and Tel-Aviv now has made me fully aware of his following. From chanting in the bazaar to offers of courtship (a bit confusing and disconcerting) to elongated walks with men down the street confessing their love of the Argentinean footballer (again confusing); Messi just might be the missing piece in the Middle East. A bit floored at first by the reception the Jersey got in Cairo, fans reactions eventually grew on me and with their immeasurable enthusiasm came my own. Revving up for the World Cup Final that night, the average pedestrian's response could not have been greater; short of Messi actually showing up and strolling the streets. Bright wide smiles lit up the unpaved roads and no one could turn a deaf ear to the chants and shouts.

Evidently, a female soccer fan was a rarity in the area. That is until I reached the airport and was greeted by the shining smiling faces of the El Al flight crew. As I arrived more than fashionably late to my flight, (on account of the game and the requisite post-game celebration – I mean coffee of course, I was in Egypt after all); two female security workers were elated to see the Jersey (3 a.m. flight - they were probably in reality very tired and were lured by the colors) and chanted "Messi" as I walked past for the questioning portion of pre-departure. With Spain clinching the title with a score of 1-0 against the Netherlands; they were enshrined in the World Cup hall of fame.
*Side note for non-soccer fans: Messi plays for Barcelona during the regular season. He played for his native Argentina for the World Cup*

This is a bit of a departure from the focus of my blog, which is Tel–Aviv. However, I found that many people that come to Israel often have an interest in visiting Egypt as well (if only to see the Pyramids at Giza). So this is what I would recommend for those interested. I took an early morning flight from Ben-Gurion (via El Al); I thought it was more time and cost effective (vs. a delay in Jordan). I also felt more comfortable in terms of security flying El Al over Royal Jordanian. Once I arrived (again in the wee hours of the early morning) my friends picked me up from the airport and from there we took a taxi to my friends' apartment. For traveling around Egypt it is best to take a taxi, just make sure that when you get in the cab the driver turns the meter on. Also for this reason take yellow or white cabs. The black cabs are generally taken by Egyptians because you haggle for the price of the ride (perhaps not the best idea for a tourist). Taxis are generally dirt cheap in Egypt and seem to be the most popular form of public transportation, at least in Cairo.

The Citadel

The Sites:

The Saladin Citadel of Cairo: A fortification commissioned by ruler Salah- Al Din during the Crusades, to protect and defend the city of Cairo and Fustat from the Crusaders. The Citadel offers a beautiful view of the city. The site closes at around 4 p.m. everyday.

The Pyramids at Giza: It's worth haggling for a camel ride around the pyramids. Unfortunately, when I went we couldn't enter the Great Pyramid because it was closed. I almost threw a "my ancestors built that pyramid, what do you mean it's closed" comment – but alas resisted.

The Nile: I recommend taking a night sail on a ship on the Nile. The ship we took (named Memphis) offered a buffet dinner and entertainment for its two hour voyage. Entertainment included belly dancing (which was not the best), singers (singing perhaps the most comical rendition of Lionel Richie's "Hello" I've ever heard) and a Whirling Dervish (Amazing!).

Sequoia Restaurant: A posh restaurant on the Nile. Stunning view and wonderfully set up; this restaurant offers everything from traditional Egyptian dishes (such as Molokheyah and for dessert Knafeh) to Sushi. Of course what's an Egyptian restaurant without Hookah/ Nargilah/ Sheesha (whatever you call it)? Recommended flavors: apple and honey, watermelon, and peach.

Bazaar (how bizarre) - Salesmanship at its finest? Bargaining is the game here. The prices are raised for tourists so in order to buy anything for a reasonable price you must haggle.

Pyramids at Giza /Sequoia Restaurant

Here's a list of Tips for Cairo:

1. Don't drink the water, unless it has a sealed top (buy water bottles - no tap water). With beverages in cans, make sure you wipe off the top of the can before drinking.

2. Generally avoid the vegetables unless they come from a reputable restaurant or are cooked. Fresh vegetables are often not washed properly and carry bacteria that may affect travelers who are unaccustomed to it. This may lead to a bad case of Pharoah's Revenge (I speak from experience).

3. Take Yellow or White Cabs - Yellow are a bit more expensive.

4. Don't ask anyone for anything - If you are at a popular tourist destination and someone comes up to you and asks you if you would like to see something special or offers information about the location, avoid them like the plague! I cannot stress this enough, seriously, all of these people earn pittance for salaries (probably equal to around $15 a month or so) and they will hound you until you tip them.

5. Women - cover your shoulders and knees. People will recognize you are a foreigner no matter what you do, but if you don't want the unwelcome attention from men it's best to cover up. They will most likely cat call you regardless, but perhaps less so if you respect this tip. This doesn't mean you should wear heavy clothing as it is an extremely hot and humid climate. Linen pants and a t-shirt or light long sleeved shirt should suffice.

6. Arrive early - many museums close around 2 p.m., so plan your trip accordingly.